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Pool test kits are essential to maintain your pool water, and thereby choosing the right pool test kit keeps your water safe and protects your pool equipment from damage. In this guide, we provide a detailed comparison of the main test kit types so you can choose the one that best aligns with your needs and preferences. When discussing pool cleaning, there are essentially two jobs. One is physical cleaning, such as removing debris via a robotic pool cleaner and balancing water chemistry. This guide covers the chemical side. We'll explain how to use a pool test kit correctly and which kit to choose. What Your Test Kit Measures: A Quick Reference If you’ve already gone through our Pool Chemistry Cheat Sheet, you now understand the importance of maintaining the right balance in your pool.  But before you learn how to use a taylor pool test kit, it helps to know what each part of your kit actually measures and why it matters. Here's a quick reference to guide you: The Core Parameters: pH: Controls comfort and how well your chlorine works. Free Chlorine (FC): The active sanitizer that kills germs. Total Alkalinity (TA): Stabilizes the pH to prevent big swings. Calcium Hardness (CH): Protects pool surfaces like plaster and vinyl. Cyanuric Acid (CYA): Protects chlorine from being destroyed by sunlight. The FC/CYA Relationship: An important concept is that your required Free Chlorine level depends on your CYA level. We provide a simple chart for this in the FAQ section. Pool Test Kit Types: A Direct Comparison Here’s a summary of which kits measure each chemical level: Water Parameter Test Strips Liquid Reagent Kits Digital Testers Free Chlorine (FC) ✔️ (Common) ✔️ (Standard) ✔️ (Standard) pH ✔️ (Common) ✔️ (Standard) ✔️ (Standard) Total Alkalinity (TA) ✔️ (Common) ✔️ (Standard) ✔️ (Standard) Cyanuric Acid (CYA) ✔️ (On some) ✔️ (In comprehensive kits) ✔️ (On most) Calcium Hardness (CH) ✔️ (On some) ✔️ (In comprehensive kits) ✔️ (On most) Combined Chlorine (CC) ❌ ✔️ (Calculated) ✔️ (Calculated) Test Strips A test strip is the basic method to check water chemistry. It’s fast, convenient, and quite cheap. However, it’s the least accurate method as colors can be hard to read, and strips are easily damaged by moisture. These strips are ideal for quick, daily checks of chlorine and pH, but not for accurate chemical dosing. You can easily learn how to use a swimming pool water test kit at home. Liquid Reagent Kits Liquid reagent kits are much more reliable and accurate, especially titration tests (counting drops). An all-in-one case tests for everything you need. Yet, these kits take more time than strips, and require careful adherence to procedures. Liquid reagent kits are best for pool owners who want accurate results to properly balance their water. For the best combination of accuracy, completeness, and value, a comprehensive liquid reagent kit, such as the Taylor K-2006 is the recommended choice. Digital Testers Digital testers are more reliable than either liquid reagent or test strips as they provide an exact number, eliminating the guesswork of color matching. They also have a pretty high accuracy.  These testers are the most expensive option and they require regular calibration to remain accurate. Digital testers are ideal for users with a larger budget or those who have difficulty distinguishing colors. How to Use a Liquid Test Kit: Step-by-Step Instructions Before you begin testing, make sure you collect your water sample the right way. Use a clean bottle, and submerge it upside down to about elbow depth (roughly 18 inches), away from return jets or skimmers. Turn it upright to let it fill, then test the water immediately for accurate results. Note: Always hold reagent bottles completely vertical to ensure uniform drop size. The following instructions are based on the Taylor K-2006 kit, which is considered the gold standard for accuracy. The procedures are identical for other kits using Taylor reagents, like the TF-100. Test 1: Free & Combined Chlorine (FAS-DPD) Rinse and fill the large test tube with pool water up to the 10 mL line. Put in one heaping scoop of DPD powder (R-0870). Swirl to mix. The water should turn pink or red. Add one drop of R-0871 at a time, swirling after each drop. Count the drops until the water turns clear. Multiply the number of drops by 0.5 to get the FC level in ppm. (Example: 4 drops × 0.5 = 2.0 ppm) Right after, add 5 drops of R-0003. Swirl the sample. If the water stays clear, your CC is zero. If it turns pink again, add R-0871 drops one by one until it turns clear again. Count the drops. Multiply those new drops by 0.5 for your CC level. Test 2: pH Rinse and fill the pH side of the test block up to the fill line. Important! If chlorine is high (above 3.0 ppm), it can mess up the pH reading. Add 1 drop of R-0007 to remove extra chlorine. Swirl to mix. Put in 5 drops of R-0014 (Phenol Red). Cap the tube, turn it upside down a few times, then compare the color to the pH chart on the test kit. Test 3: Total Alkalinity Rinse and fill the large test bottle with pool water up to the 25 mL line. Add 2 drops of R-0007 and swirl. Add 5 drops of R-0008. Swirl. The water should turn green. Add R-0009 one drop at a time, swirling after each. Count the drops until the color changes from green to red. Multiply the number of drops by 10 to get your Total Alkalinity (TA) in ppm. (Example: 8 drops × 10 = 80 ppm) Test 4: Calcium Hardness Rinse and fill the large test bottle with pool water up to the 25 mL line. Add 20 drops of R-0010. Swirl to mix. Add 5 drops of R-0011L. Swirl. The water should turn red. Add R-0012 one drop at a time, swirling after each. Count the drops until the color changes from red to blue. Multiply the number of drops by 10 to get your Calcium Hardness (CH) in ppm. (Example: 12 drops × 10 = 120 ppm) Test 5: Cyanuric Acid Rinse and fill the small mixing bottle with pool water up to the 7 mL line. Fill to the 14 mL line with R-0013. Cap the bottle and shake hard for 30 seconds. Wait 1-3 minutes for the cloudy mixture to form. Slowly pour the solution into the view tube while looking straight down. Stop when you can no longer see the black dot at the bottom. Look at the number on the side of the tube where the water stopped. That’s your CYA level in ppm. Common Problems & Frequently Asked Questions My chlorine test reads zero right after shocking. Why? The chlorine level is so high that it bleached the reagent. This gives a false reading. Use the FAS-DPD test, which can handle high chlorine levels. Why does my pH test look dark purple? The chlorine level is too high, which interferes with the pH test and gives a false high reading. Wait for the chlorine level to drop before re-testing the pH. What is the FC/CYA chart, and how do I use it? Here’s a chart showing the minimum Free Chlorine needed based on the CYA level. This is the most effective way to prevent algae. If CYA is (ppm) Minimum FC should be (ppm) 30 2.3 50 3.8 70 5.3 Conclusion To manage your pool effectively, you need accurate data. A comprehensive liquid test kit provides the most reliable results. Learn how to use a 3 way pool test kit and use it weekly to test all parameters and make precise chemical adjustments. Proper chemical balance and consistent physical cleaning are the two essential parts of pool maintenance. By learning how to use a pool water test kit and using the right test kit and letting your robot handle the debris, you ensure your pool remains safe, clean, and ready to enjoy.

Worried why the pool water is still cloudy even though you clean it regularly? The reason could be a dirty pool filter that requires your attention. Neglecting the pool filter maintenance can affect the water clarity, pool equipment, and the effectiveness of sanitizing chemicals, resulting in unhealthy pool water. Therefore, many home pool owners seek cost-effective solutions for cleaning their filters. Whether you have a cartridge, sand, or DE filter, this guide shows how to clean pool filters step-by-step to save money on replacements. Why Cleaning Pool Filters Matters Cleaning pool filters can step up your swimming experience and reduce the risk of costly repairs. Suppose the filter is the “kidney” of your pool, removing harmful microorganisms and debris that can make the water unclear or unsafe. What’s more, the unclean or clogged filters restrict the water flow and increase the pump strain. This not only damages the pool equipment but also incurs significant energy bills.  On the other hand, a clean filter extends the pump's lifespan, reduces energy costs, prevents cloudiness, and minimizes the need for chemicals to maintain pool sanitation. You will get clean, sparkling water with balanced pressure levels at all times. What is a Cartridge Pool Filter and How to Clean it  Most owners with above-ground pools have a cartridge pool filter. It simply contains a polyester pleated material (polyester, paper, or cotton) that traps debris as water flows through it. As soon as the pressure gauge hits 10 PSI, clean the clogged cartridge immediately. How to Clean a Cartridge Pool Filter Follow these steps to remove the accumulated debris and oils from the cartridge.  First, turn off the pump and release the pressure by opening the filter housing manually.  Untighten the locking ring and lid to remove the cartridge from the tank with care.  Rinse the cartridge with a spray nozzle at about 45 45-degree angle.  After removing the trapped dirt, soak the filter in a mix of cleaner and water with a 1:10 ratio. Or, replace the filter if needed (typically every 18-24 months) Let it soak for 12-24 hours, depending on the heavy grease or algae. Rinse it before reinstalling.  Check for any wear and tear. Reinstall the cartridge with correct alignment. Reassemble the housing and close the air relief valve. Restart the pump and check for leaks.  Unlike sand filters, cartridge ones are easier to clean and don’t require backwashing. You can also use a filter cleaning wand and mild detergents. Worth noting: Don’t use flocculants or clarifiers with cartridge filters. Also, avoid high-pressure washers to prevent damage. What is a Sand Pool Filter and How to Clean it  Primarily, a sand filter is a sand tank connected to the filtration system. Whenever the water passes through it, the sand traps the debris, which then goes to the waste, resulting in clear water. The filter housing, made of stainless steel or fiberglass, is a durable choice that withstands high pressure. How to Clean a Sand Filter Cleaning a sand filter involves backwashing that removes smaller particles until the sand becomes denser. Here is what you need to do: Turn off the pool pump. Set the valve to “Backwash.” Start the backwashing sand filter either manually or automatically. Attach a backwash hose to reverse the flow of water away from the pool area. Turn on the pump and backwash for a few minutes until the water appears clear. Set the valve to “Rinse” to run for one minute so the sand is settled. Now set the valve back to “Filter” mode. Run the pump and double-check for leaks. Backwashing isn’t a laborious task, but overdoing it can damage the filter. Therefore, follow the user’s instructions on how much sand to add and always run the pump with water. Make sure to check for sand replacement (every 5-7 years) if clumps develop. What is a DE Filter and How to Clean it Diatomaceous Earth or DE filtration uses a porous powder and absorbs large amounts of water like a sponge. The DE powder traps the dirt by coating the filter grids, forming a cake-like layer. It is the most effective filtration type for removing the finest particles. How to Clean a DE Filter Cleaning DE filters can be more complex than other filter types. For effective filtration, follow these steps. Turn the pump off. Set the valve to “Backwash” mode and attach a hose. Backwash it for 2-3 minutes until the water seems clear. Switch the valve to “Rinse” mode for one minute to clear the remaining DE. Open the filter housing and remove the grid to clean it. Remove the DE and debris with a hose washer. Check the grids for any damage and replace if necessary. Set the valve to “Filter” mode. Add the fresh DE to the filter. Make a slurry by mixing DE powder with water. Slowly pour it into the skimmer with the pump running. Handle the DE filter cleaning properly to prevent inhaling powder. And, follow the user’s instructions to add the right amount to avoid messy backwashing. Comparison of Filter Types  Let’s make the filtration guide easier by comparing the cost, cleaning frequency, pros, and cons of each filter.  Filter Type Cost Cleaning Frequency Pros Cons Cartridge  $100–$500 Every 3–6 months Easy to clean, no backwashing, only soaking Less effective for fine particles Sand $300–$800 Every 1–2 months Low maintenance, durable material Requires backwashing, sand replacement DE $500–$1,200 Monthly backwash Superior filtration Complex cleaning, DE disposal issues, Grids need replacement Maintenance Tips and FAQs  For pool owners, it is essential to maintain water, monitor pressure gauges, and clean the filters before winterizing. This will save money on purchasing sanitizing chemicals and replacing equipment often. Another practical approach is to use a high-quality robotic pool cleaner, such as the Dreame Z1 Pro, to maintain clean pool surfaces at all times. This will save you a significant amount of time and hassle. FAQs about Pool Filter Cleaning Q: How often should I clean my pool filter? A: Pool filters should be cleaned every 1-6 months, depending on the filter type, pool usage, water conditions, and pressure readings.  Q: Can I use a pressure washer to clean my cartridge filter? A: No, high-pressure washers can damage the filter media and cartridge pleats.  Q: How much DE do I need for my filter? A: It depends on the size of the filter and whether you are just cleaning or backwashing. You can add 1-5 lbs of DE for every 10 square feet.  Conclusion  Improve the quality of pool water by cleaning the filters regularly. Proper filtration reduces maintenance costs and prevents algae growth. The above guide shows how to clean filters and avoid damage regardless of the type. Consider investing in a robotic pool cleaner if you use your pool frequently to prevent debris accumulation. Enjoy swimming in sparkling, clean water this season!

Are you tired of always seeing your pool with cloudy water or supporting algae growth? Well, you’re not alone. Many homeowners face this relentless issue, and it all boils down to how well you take care of your pool. And when talking about algae or cloudy water, you mustn’t forget free chlorine. It’s the chlorine that effectively kills bacteria, reduces algae growth, and eradicates cloudiness from pool water. It’s important to maintain the ideal levels of free chlorine in water (1-3 ppm). In this blog, we’ll learn how to increase free chlorine in the pool and some practical tips to maintain it. What Is Free Chlorine and Why Does It Matter? Free chlorine is active chlorine that disinfects the pool water and kills bacteria and pathogens. In contrast, combined chlorine is the one that reacts with contaminants like sweat, dirt, or body oils in pool water to form chloramines. Free chlorine is essential to keeping water clear and safe. Low levels of free chlorine lead to cloudiness in pool water and also pose health risks to individuals. Hence, it’s crucial to maintain the ideal free chlorine range (1-3 ppm). Signs Your Pool Needs More Free Chlorine If your pool exhibits the following signs, it means it has low free chlorine levels:  Cloudy or green water Strong chlorine smell (indicating high chloramines) Algae growth Skin or eye irritation  Why Does Free Chlorine Drop? Free chlorine levels change due to the following reasons:  High Bather Load: The higher the number of swimmers, the more contaminants are introduced into the pool. Sunlight (UV Degradation): Breaks down chlorine, making it crucial to consider for outdoor pools. Heavy Rainfall/Debris: Add contaminants and dilute pool chemicals, reducing chlorine effectiveness. Organic Contaminants: Leaves, dirt, oils, sweat, and pet dander lower pool chlorine levels. Low Cyanuric Acid (CYA): Low cyanuric acid levels fail to protect chlorine from UV degradation. High Cyanuric Acid (CYA): High cyanuric acid levels can "lock up" chlorine, making it less effective. Improper pH: Reduce chlorine’s ability to sanitize the pool properly. Chlorine Demand: When chlorine demand is high due to extreme contamination, the existing chlorine gets overwhelmed. Ineffective Circulation/Filtration: Prevents chlorine from being distributed and contaminants from being removed. How to Increase Free Chlorine in Your Pool (Step-by-Step) If your pool has constant cloudy water or algae growth, you need to improve the free chlorine levels. Here’s how to raise free chlorine in a pool. Step 1: Test Your Pool Water The first step is always to test your pool water. Use a test kit or strips to measure free chlorine and pH levels. To obtain accurate results, collect a water sample from elbow depth, away from skimmers or jets. Step 2: Assess and Balance pH  Next, test for water chemistry. pH affects the effectiveness of chlorine, with high pH (above 7.8) reducing its effectiveness and low pH (below 7.2) causing irritation or equipment damage. You should balance the water pH by adding a pH increaser or decreaser, respectively. Step 3: Choose and Add the Right Chlorine Product There are various options available to increase free chlorine in the pool. The most commonly available ones are: Liquid Chlorine: Fast-acting, ideal for quick boosts, but requires careful handling. Granular Chlorine (calcium hypochlorite): Dissolves quickly, suitable for shocking. Chlorine Tablets (trichlor): Slow-release, best for ongoing pool maintenance via a floater or skimmer. First, calculate your pool’s volume (in gallons) to determine the correct chlorine dose. For example, 1 pound of granular chlorine per 10,000 gallons raises the free chlorine level by ~1 part per million (ppm). You should add chlorine in the evening to minimize UV degradation. Always follow the product instructions for safe handling, including wearing gloves and avoiding inhaling fumes. Step 4: Run the Pool Filter  Run the pool filter. Filtration helps distribute chlorine and remove contaminants. Run the pump for 8-12 hours after adding chlorine. Step 5: Retest and Monitor  Retest after 4-6 hours to ensure free chlorine is in the 1-3 ppm range. Do not over-chlorinate the pool, i.e., above five ppm, as it can cause skin irritation. Common Mistakes to Avoid When Increasing Free Chlorine When adding free chlorine, please avoid the following mistakes. Over-chlorinating can harm swimmers and pool equipment. Ignoring pH or cyanuric acid levels (high cyanuric acid reduces chlorine effectiveness). Failing to clean the pool filter can hinder chlorine distribution. Preventive Tips to Maintain Free Chlorine Levels  Here are some effective tips to maintain the ideal free chlorine levels in your pool. Regularly test and follow proper maintenance schedules. Use a pool cover to reduce debris and UV degradation of chlorine. Manage cyanuric acid (30-50 ppm) to stabilize chlorine. Shock the pool weekly or after heavy use (e.g., pool parties). Frequently vacuum the pool with your pool cleaner to prevent changes in pool chemistry. Conclusion  Free chlorine is crucial for maintaining a sparkling clean and sanitized pool. If cloudy water or stubborn algae growth is the problem, free chlorine is the solution. You can easily add free chlorine by first testing the pool water, balancing water chemistry, adding free chlorine, running the pool filter, and then retesting to monitor the levels. Test your pool today and keep it safe!

Owning an above-ground pool is a great source of enjoyment and allows for quality time with loved ones. But they are durable as long as they are maintained. Above-ground pools often get dirty when a big storm arrives or after heavy use. The debris buildup, if not removed promptly, can impact the overall health of the pool. Finding no time for consistent maintenance? Let the era of robots take the plunge and use an automatic pool cleaner. This guide answers the question of how to keep an above-ground pool clean for safe swimming. Why Above-Ground Pool Maintenance is Important Above-ground pools with vinyl liners require much of the same effort as in-ground pools. They are, in fact, more prone to the settled debris and strains from the harmful contaminants. A single change in the pool’s chemistry can disturb the water’s health. Following the maintenance checklist will prevent algae from breeding, damage to equipment, and cloudiness or discoloration of the water. These are the common nightmares of every pool owner.  A safe and inviting pool is achievable by cleaning the above-ground pool regularly. Keep its smaller filtration system clog-free. Improve the circulation, skim the surface debris, and check for any leaks or damage. One reason why owners fret about the above-ground maintenance is the time-consuming cleaning. Self-propelled above-ground pool cleaners will help you reduce the time and effort since they can clean the pool in your absence. A Step-by-Step Guide for Above-Ground Pool Maintenance Even if the above-ground pool takes less time than in-ground ones, they still need a consistent routine and a little attention to stay durable. Here are the steps to follow: Step 1. Test and Balance Water Chemistry The first line of defense is to balance the water chemistry within the normal ranges. You can do this by testing the water through kits or strips. Test these: pH between 7.2 and 7.6 alkalinity between 80-120 ppm Chlorine levels (Free Available Chlorine) between 1-3 ppm calcium levels between 200-400 ppm Testing two times a week would alert you to any potential risks before they become noticeable. Hence, adjust the levels accordingly. You can add baking soda for alkalinity or chlorine tablets for sanitation when needed. Step 2. Skim and Remove Debris Regularly Mind these hazards that could damage the pool surfaces: nearby trees with falling leaves, activity around the pool, nesting insects under the rail, and mowing too close to the wall. Unfortunately, the surface debris can clog the filters and increase the chances of algae growth. Skimming is the solution. You can do it manually with a net, but it would be a slow burn. If so, look for a robotic skimmer for stress-free surface cleaning. The Dreame J1 Skimmer uses solar power and smart path planning to clean the debris from every corner on its own. Step 3. Clean the Pool Floor and Walls More than the pool water, keep the floors, walls, and edges clean. The dirt and algae settle easily there, especially in vinyl-lined pools. Skim, vacuum, and brush all the surfaces. Protect the walls from cracks and rails from rusting.  Using a leaf net removes the debris, but vacuuming cleans the sunken dirt. You can either manually brush the pools or go for automated cleaners. A good robotic cleaner with 8,000 GPH suction power like that of the Dreame Z1 Pro, has an edge over other cleaners. It operates on preset cycles and features climbing wall elements. Step 4. Run and Maintain the Filter System Let the larger pump run for 12-16 hours/day or the smaller pump run 24 hours during peak seasons. You should still run the filter 8-12 hours daily, even if you don’t plan to use the pool for a day. Both the pump and the filter work together to circulate the water so the entire pool volume is filtered. The water is pumped into the filter through impulsion, where it gets cleaned of any dirt or debris. The pump also catches the escaped debris from the skimmer.  To clean the filters, turn off the pump and remove the cartridge. Dip and clean the cartridge in the solution to remove oils and scales. Or, Backwash if sand or DE filters. Replace the filter media if worn out.  Keeping the pump and filter clean is essential to avoid an algae bloom. The better idea is to use the robotic cleaners to keep the debris out of the filtration system. Otherwise, the filers would have dirt stains over time.  Step 5. Shock the Pool Periodically Shocking treatment refers to adding a high dose of chlorine to kill off harmful contaminants (such as bacteria, algae, combined chlorine, or chloramines).  There are two types of shock: Chlorine-based (sanitizers) and Non-chlorine shocks (oxidizers). Which one is best for you depends on your pool size, usage, and dosage requirements. The aim is to increase the levels of free available chlorine (FAC) so that it can perform sanitization effectively. Shocking every week or after heavy use is also important to have an odour-free, hygienic pool. Most people would typically be shocked when the pool turns green or cloudy. It really gets rid of the stubborn algae or hidden germs.  Be sure to read the instructions, wear the safety gear, and shock at night. Leave the pump running and abstain from swimming till the chemistry is balanced out. Common Above-Ground Pool Maintenance Mistakes to Avoid  By avoiding the following mistakes, you can keep your above-ground pool in good working condition.  Neglecting water tests: Not doing monthly water tests will only lead to more troubles. Either buy a reliable kit or bring a water sample to a professional pool service for thorough checking.  Not cleaning the Impeller: Many times, the impeller (part of the pump) goes unnoticed, leading to clogging issues or even stopping water flow.  Draining completely: Another common mistake to avoid is draining the pool completely. Always leave the water in the pool (at least 6 inches) to protect the liner and structure.  Overdosing: The more chemical impact creates a harsher swimming environment. It can also damage the pool surface and equipment.  Ignoring hidden buildup: The microscopic particles can hide anywhere and wouldn’t show up until the damage has been done. Use clarifiers, algaecides, and sanitizers to remove the buildup.  Consistent cleaning can save you from liner damage or debris buildup. If you forget the maintenance schedule, use robotic pool cleaners for above-ground pools. Let the Dreame Z1 and J1 clean the pool for everyone to enjoy.  Seasonal and Long-Term Care Tips  So, how to keep the water clean off-season? Adapt these simple care tips for year-round protection. In the summer, when the temperature rises, increase the filter run time. Use skimmers and cleaners frequently to remove debris.  When the summer ends, winterize the pool carefully. Store the chemicals, shut down the motor and pump, and store them properly. But don’t drain the above-ground pool fully, otherwise it will collapse inward. Cover the pool with a closing kit, an air pillow, or a cover pump.  Clean the pool each time you open or close it. Balance the water out and run the automatic cleaner to remove the winter debris. If possible, ask for the professional cleaning service. Conclusion  Taking proper care of the pool on a monthly basis will save the pool from expensive damage. The above tips will ensure you are doing the maintenance tasks correctly. For pool owners with busy schedules, buy yourself a hassle-free Dreame robotic cleaner and skimmer. Store the supplies in a dry place during the off-season.  Keep the above-ground pool crystal-clear and ready to swim in all seasons!

Need help in raising cyanuric acid levels in your pools? Let’s begin by understanding the role of cyanuric acid in pools. Imagine you are sanitizing your outdoor pool with a chlorine tablet and half of it dissipates, leaving behind unsanitary water instead. It is because the UV rays naturally break down the chlorine without you even noticing it. If you have a pool in areas with sunlight, you may experience rapid chlorine loss and a pungent chlorine odor. The solution is to maintain cyanuric acid levels in pools to avoid chlorine levels dropping. All pool owners must check chlorine levels and maintain a clean pool to have more peaceful sunny days. What Is Cyanuric Acid and Why Does It Matter Cyanuric acid (CNOH)₃, or a pool stabilizer, works by protecting your “added” chlorine from being destroyed by the sun’s exposure. It matters because it helps chlorine last longer as CYA stays in the pool for a longer period, even if the water evaporates. Since the chlorine lasts 3-5 times longer when added with a stabilizer, it also sanitizes your pool water longer. But how much cyanuric acid is needed? The ideal CYA range is 30-50 ppm for traditional pools and 60-80 ppm for saltwater pools. A pool with low CYA levels may end up with “not enough” chlorine, no matter how much you add daily. Ultimately, ineffective chlorine will lead to potential algae growth and an unsafe swimming experience. More CYA is necessary for saltwater pools and pools in areas with more sunlight. If you have an indoor pool without UV exposure, you don’t need any stabilizer to meet the chlorine demand. How to Test Cyanuric Acid Levels Since cyanuric stays in water for a long time, it needs testing before adding more stabilizer. The process is very simple. Use a CYA-specific pool test strip and dip it in water for 30 seconds. Wait for one minute for the water to react with the reagents on the strip. Then, compare the results with the range on a strip. If the levels are not in the ideal range (30-50 ppm), adjust the water and retest. If you are testing CYA levels with a turbidity testing kit, follow the instructions clearly and gently mix the chemical reagent into the sample water in the vessel. CYA levels in the pool should remain constant day-to-day and must be tested weekly. If accurate readings are not generated, take the water sample to a professional pool supply store. Signs Your Pool’s Cyanuric Acid Levels Are Too Low How to know when your pool is having low CYA levels? If you witness symptoms like Rapid chlorine depletion unsanitary water bad odour cloudy water  or sometimes green water due to algae These are all chlorine-related problems that mainly result in the absence of CYA. Unlike free chlorine, CYA levels are usually stable. So, how come they get so low? A large splashout, using unstabilized chlorine, a heavy rainstorm, and water evaporation can cause a decline in CYA levels. If you have had to partially drain and refill the pool with fresh water, you will also have low cyanuric acid levels. Keep on reading to learn how to raise cyanuric acid in a pool efficiently. Two Simple Methods to Raise Cyanuric Acid Levels There are two essential things you can do to raise cyanuric acid levels. One is to add a pool stabilizer or pool conditioner (pure cyanuric acid). The second one is to add stabilized chlorine.  Method 1: Add Pure Cyanuric Acid (Pool Stabilizer)  Pure CYA can be introduced into your water in either granular or liquid form. Simply do this: Firstly, make sure CYA levels are lower than normal (< 30 ppm). Use a CYA calculator to confirm how much is needed. Pour the liquid CYA directly into the skimmer and turn on the pump cycle for 2-4 hours straight. The liquid form works in approximately 24 hours.  For granular CYA, dissolve it in a plastic vessel filled with warm water. Add this slurry-type mix slowly to the skimmer. The powdered granular takes 5-7 days to dissolve.  Retest the levels after 1 or 2 days. Method 2: Use Stabilized Chlorine Products  If you have been using unstabilized chlorine or liquid bleach, consider having products like dichlor or trichlor as part of your regular pool chemical supply. These CYA containing products gradually increase chlorine levels. You can purchase a form of stabilized chlorine in chlorine tablets, granular form, or liquid chlorine.  Since stabilized chlorine can surge the CYA levels in no time, monitor CYA levels once a week. It is not good to use stabilized chlorine for shocking, as CYA buildup may occur.  But before you add anything, test the water chemistry, e.g., pH (7.2-7.6), total alkalinity (80-120 ppm), and chlorine levels using testing strips. Maintaining Balanced Cyanuric Acid Levels Having too little or too much CYA can poorly disturb chlorine’s activity. It can result in an unhealthy pool for swimmers as chlorine would not sanitize as effectively, and water will be the perfect breeding ground for algae growth. Water losses through splashout or backwashing may result in low CYA levels, thus requiring frequent raises. If you overuse stabilized chlorine, it will lead to high CYA levels (>100 ppm). This is another nightmare for many pool owners, as higher CYA levels are even harder to fix. A pool that is always high in chlorine demand sets off a chain reaction affecting pH balance and total alkalinity. To overcome this and support CYA’s role, regular pool cleaning is a must. For your consideration, investing in pool cleaning equipment will save you time and effort in cleaning pool surfaces from every corner. Let the pump run automatically to dissolve chemicals correctly. You can consider the Dreame Z1 Pro robotic cleaner for its ultra-efficient purification technologies to help you achieve the perfect water chemistry. Mistakes to Avoid When Raising Cyanuric Acid  If you make these mistakes, the following damage can result. Overusing CYA may result in expensive dilution or complete draining. More than 100 ppm levels can also reduce chlorine’s effectiveness.  Overusing stabilized chlorine for shocking. Adding the water to the CYA instead of the stabilizer to the water. Not testing CYA regularly may end up with a creepy buildup. Not checking water chemistry before adding CYA. Conclusion Balanced levels of cyanuric acid can keep your chlorine from being burned off too quickly by the sunlight. You can increase the CYA levels in the pool by adding pool stabilizer (pure cyanuric acid) or stabilized chlorine products (trichlor or dichlor) in any form. Cyanuric acid is still an acid, and not adding it correctly can damage your pool.  We recommend that you test the water chemistry and monitor CYA levels weekly. To avoid chlorine problems, keep your pool clean at all times. Regular cleaning with robotic pool cleaners will save you from having to drain your pool to completely balance the water.  Enjoy the pool season with sparkling water at ease.

It’s quite frustrating when you always find your pool water cloudy or green. Well, one of the major culprits is algae, and it can make pool maintenance challenging. In this blog, we’ll cover everything you need to know about algae formation, how to identify it, the major causes behind it, and how to get rid of algae in pool. The blog is essentially divided into three major categories: Identification, Removal, and Prevention, so you can make your pool crystal clear. Identify Your Algae Type The first step in any battle is to know your enemy. Here's how to identify which type of invader has taken over your pool: Green Algae (Chlorophyta): Green algae usually cause hazy green water with slimy patches. It’s the most common type of algae. Mustard/Yellow Algae (Xanthophyta): Mustard algae in pool have a yellowish appearance. While it easily brushes away, it often returns, making pool maintenance a hurdle. It’s mostly found on the pool floor and walls, especially in shaded areas with poor circulation. Mustard algae are pretty resistant to chlorine. Black Algae (Cyanobacteria): Black algae in pool show up as hard, black spots. It's actually a bacterium with a protective shell and deep roots. This protective shell must be physically broken for chemicals to penetrate and eliminate it.  Pink Algae/Slime (Serratia marcescens): Pink or red algae in pool has a pinkish tone and a slimy film. It’s also a bacterium, not an alga. It’s often found in areas with poor water flow, such as in corners, along PVC pipes, or inside light fixtures. What Causes Algae in a Pool Now that you've identified your opponent, it's time to understand why it showed up in the first place. An algae bloom is never a random event. It's a direct symptom of a failure in one of these three core areas of pool maintenance. Poor Water Chemistry & Sanitation Poor sanitation and unbalanced water chemistry leads to several issues. Firstly, if your pool has low chlorine levels, it affects the pool’s main defense system. If it has high pH, nutrient or cyanuric acid levels, it can render chlorine ineffective for sanitation and can also make the pool a breeding ground for algae. Low Free Chlorine: The primary defense has failed. Incorrect pH Level: High pH renders chlorine ineffective. High Cyanuric Acid (CYA): Excessive stabilizer can cause a "chlorine lock," rendering chlorine ineffective for sanitizing. High Nutrient Levels: Algae thrive on phosphates and nitrates, and if the pool has them in high amounts, the algae will most likely appear.  Poor Circulation If your pool suffers from poor circulation, you’ll see the pool water stagnant and stay in one place without any movement. This often happens due to the pump not operating effectively. Insufficient Pump Run Time: The water is stagnant. "Dead Spots": Areas in the pool with no water movement. Poor Filtration If your pool filter is dirty, it won’t be able to remove contaminants effectively and thus pollute the water. Dirty or Clogged Filter: The filter is unable to remove spores and debris. This is why tools that automate cleaning, like Z1 pro, contribute to better overall filtration by removing debris independently before it can clog up the primary system. How to Get Rid of Algae in Your Pool Now that you have understood what causes algae in a pool (imbalanced pH, high nutrient levels, and stabilizer), it’s time to take matters into your hands and learn how to get rid of algae in pool quickly. Step 1: Test and Balance Your Water The first step is to make sure your pool has a stable pH. A balanced pH makes your chlorine effective again, turning your primary weapon back on before the main assault. Step 2: Brush All Pool Surfaces Once the pH is set, you need to brush the pool surface. Use a wire brush for Black Algae on plaster; a stiff nylon brush for everything else, paying special attention to corners for Pink Slime.Brushing physically destroys the algae colonies and breaks the protective outer layer of Black Algae, exposing them to the chemicals. It disrupts the physical manifestation of the problem. Step 3: Shock Your Pool Now you need to shock your pool. The shock amount depends on the color and severity of algae. For instance, double the amount for green, triple the amount for mustard, and quadruple the amount for black.This is the primary chemical assault that re-establishes sanitizer dominance, directly fixing the Low Free Chlorine level that allowed the bloom to start. Step 4: Run the Filter 24/7 Once you’ve shocked the pool, you should run the pool filter 24/7 to clear out the dead algae particles. This directly addresses Poor Filtration and Poor Circulation by forcing the entire system to work at maximum capacity to remove the dead contaminants you've just created. Step 5: Vacuum to Waste and Clean the Filter The last step is to clean the pool filter and vacuum the waste. You cannot skip this as it is the critical final step. It ensures the filter itself does not become a new source of contamination, preventing it from seeding a future bloom. It is a perfect job for a robotic pool cleaner. Its self-contained filter basket is excellent at trapping the fine, dead algae particles, which saves you time and significantly reduces the amount of contaminated debris sent to your main pool filter. Frequently Asked Questions About Pool Algae Here are some common questions you may have about pool algae. Is it safe to swim in a pool with algae? No, it’s not safe to swim in a pool with algae. There are several risks to it. First, slippery surfaces create a fall hazard. Second, murky water can hide a swimmer in distress, and third, algae consume chlorine, allowing harmful bacteria like E. coli to thrive. How do I know if my Cyanuric Acid (CYA) level is too high? This requires a specific test that can measure up to 100 ppm, which exceeds the capabilities of most basic test strips. Take a water sample to a professional pool store for an accurate reading. The only way to lower CYA is to drain and refill the pool with fresh water partially. Can I just use an algaecide instead of shocking the pool? No. Algaecides are most effective when used as a backup or preventative measure. They are not a substitute for proper sanitation and the "breakpoint chlorination" achieved by a powerful shock treatment. What is the best way to prevent algae from coming back? Embrace a routine of proactive maintenance based on the "Four Pillars": Consistent Sanitation (testing and balancing), Optimized Circulation (pump run time), Perfect Filtration (regular cleaning), and Routine Physical Cleaning (skimming and brushing). A robotic pool skimmer constantly patrols the surface, removing leaves and debris before they can sink and decompose into algae food like phosphates. What's the difference between regular chlorine and shocking for algae? Yes, chlorine is the primary tool used to combat algae. However, a normal sanitizer level (1-4 ppm) only prevents growth. To learn how to kill algae in pool, you must "shock" the pool with a massive dose of chlorine to reach "breakpoint chlorination" and overwhelm the organisms. This is only effective if the pool's pH is properly balanced first. Conclusion Successfully eliminating an algae bloom is a major victory, but the ultimate goal is to ensure it never comes back. As we've learned, the best way to prevent algae is to consistently maintain the three pillars of pool health: Consistent Sanitation, Optimized Circulation, and Perfect Filtration. By testing your water weekly, running your pump daily, and keeping your filter clean, you transform pool care from a reactive chore into a proactive discipline, guaranteeing a safe and sparkling pool all season long.