How to Choose and Use Pool Test Kits

Pool test kits are essential to maintain your pool water, and thereby choosing the right pool test kit keeps your water safe and protects your pool equipment from damage. In this guide, we provide a detailed comparison of the main test kit types so you can choose the one that best aligns with your needs and preferences.

When discussing pool cleaning, there are essentially two jobs. One is physical cleaning, such as removing debris via a robotic pool cleaner and balancing water chemistry. This guide covers the chemical side. We'll explain how to use a pool test kit correctly and which kit to choose.

What Your Test Kit Measures: A Quick Reference

If you’ve already gone through our Pool Chemistry Cheat Sheet, you now understand the importance of maintaining the right balance in your pool. 

But before you learn how to use a taylor pool test kit, it helps to know what each part of your kit actually measures and why it matters. Here's a quick reference to guide you:

The Core Parameters:

• pH: Controls comfort and how well your chlorine works.
• Free Chlorine (FC): The active sanitizer that kills germs.
• Total Alkalinity (TA): Stabilizes the pH to prevent big swings.
• Calcium Hardness (CH): Protects pool surfaces like plaster and vinyl.
• Cyanuric Acid (CYA): Protects chlorine from being destroyed by sunlight.

The FC/CYA Relationship: An important concept is that your required Free Chlorine level depends on your CYA level. We provide a simple chart for this in the FAQ section.

Pool Test Kit Types: A Direct Comparison

Here’s a summary of which kits measure each chemical level:

Water Parameter	Test Strips	Liquid Reagent Kits	Digital Testers
Free Chlorine (FC)	✔️ (Common)	✔️ (Standard)	✔️ (Standard)
pH	✔️ (Common)	✔️ (Standard)	✔️ (Standard)
Total Alkalinity (TA)	✔️ (Common)	✔️ (Standard)	✔️ (Standard)
Cyanuric Acid (CYA)	✔️ (On some)	✔️ (In comprehensive kits)	✔️ (On most)
Calcium Hardness (CH)	✔️ (On some)	✔️ (In comprehensive kits)	✔️ (On most)
Combined Chlorine (CC)	❌	✔️ (Calculated)	✔️ (Calculated)

Test Strips

A test strip is the basic method to check water chemistry. It’s fast, convenient, and quite cheap. However, it’s the least accurate method as colors can be hard to read, and strips are easily damaged by moisture.

These strips are ideal for quick, daily checks of chlorine and pH, but not for accurate chemical dosing. You can easily learn how to use a swimming pool water test kit at home.

Liquid Reagent Kits

Liquid reagent kits are much more reliable and accurate, especially titration tests (counting drops). An all-in-one case tests for everything you need. Yet, these kits take more time than strips, and require careful adherence to procedures.

Liquid reagent kits are best for pool owners who want accurate results to properly balance their water.

For the best combination of accuracy, completeness, and value, a comprehensive liquid reagent kit, such as the Taylor K-2006 is the recommended choice.

Digital Testers

Digital testers are more reliable than either liquid reagent or test strips as they provide an exact number, eliminating the guesswork of color matching. They also have a pretty high accuracy. 

These testers are the most expensive option and they require regular calibration to remain accurate.

Digital testers are ideal for users with a larger budget or those who have difficulty distinguishing colors.

How to Use a Liquid Test Kit: Step-by-Step Instructions

Before you begin testing, make sure you collect your water sample the right way. Use a clean bottle, and submerge it upside down to about elbow depth (roughly 18 inches), away from return jets or skimmers. Turn it upright to let it fill, then test the water immediately for accurate results.

Note: Always hold reagent bottles completely vertical to ensure uniform drop size. The following instructions are based on the Taylor K-2006 kit, which is considered the gold standard for accuracy. The procedures are identical for other kits using Taylor reagents, like the TF-100.

Test 1: Free & Combined Chlorine (FAS-DPD)

1. Rinse and fill the large test tube with pool water up to the 10 mL line.
2. Put in one heaping scoop of DPD powder (R-0870). Swirl to mix. The water should turn pink or red.
3. Add one drop of R-0871 at a time, swirling after each drop. Count the drops until the water turns clear.
4. Multiply the number of drops by 0.5 to get the FC level in ppm. (Example: 4 drops × 0.5 = 2.0 ppm)
5. Right after, add 5 drops of R-0003. Swirl the sample.
6. If the water stays clear, your CC is zero. If it turns pink again, add R-0871 drops one by one until it turns clear again. Count the drops.
7. Multiply those new drops by 0.5 for your CC level.

Test 2: pH

1. Rinse and fill the pH side of the test block up to the fill line.
2. Important! If chlorine is high (above 3.0 ppm), it can mess up the pH reading. Add 1 drop of R-0007 to remove extra chlorine. Swirl to mix.
3. Put in 5 drops of R-0014 (Phenol Red).
4. Cap the tube, turn it upside down a few times, then compare the color to the pH chart on the test kit.

Test 3: Total Alkalinity

1. Rinse and fill the large test bottle with pool water up to the 25 mL line.
2. Add 2 drops of R-0007 and swirl.
3. Add 5 drops of R-0008. Swirl. The water should turn green.
4. Add R-0009 one drop at a time, swirling after each. Count the drops until the color changes from green to red.
5. Multiply the number of drops by 10 to get your Total Alkalinity (TA) in ppm. (Example: 8 drops × 10 = 80 ppm)

Test 4: Calcium Hardness

1. Rinse and fill the large test bottle with pool water up to the 25 mL line.
2. Add 20 drops of R-0010. Swirl to mix.
3. Add 5 drops of R-0011L. Swirl. The water should turn red.
4. Add R-0012 one drop at a time, swirling after each. Count the drops until the color changes from red to blue.
5. Multiply the number of drops by 10 to get your Calcium Hardness (CH) in ppm. (Example: 12 drops × 10 = 120 ppm)

Test 5: Cyanuric Acid

1. Rinse and fill the small mixing bottle with pool water up to the 7 mL line.
2. Fill to the 14 mL line with R-0013.
3. Cap the bottle and shake hard for 30 seconds.
4. Wait 1-3 minutes for the cloudy mixture to form.
5. Slowly pour the solution into the view tube while looking straight down. Stop when you can no longer see the black dot at the bottom.
6. Look at the number on the side of the tube where the water stopped. That’s your CYA level in ppm.

Common Problems & Frequently Asked Questions

My chlorine test reads zero right after shocking. Why?

The chlorine level is so high that it bleached the reagent. This gives a false reading. Use the FAS-DPD test, which can handle high chlorine levels.

Why does my pH test look dark purple?

The chlorine level is too high, which interferes with the pH test and gives a false high reading. Wait for the chlorine level to drop before re-testing the pH.

What is the FC/CYA chart, and how do I use it?

Here’s a chart showing the minimum Free Chlorine needed based on the CYA level. This is the most effective way to prevent algae.

If CYA is (ppm)	Minimum FC should be (ppm)
30	2.3
50	3.8
70	5.3

Conclusion

To manage your pool effectively, you need accurate data. A comprehensive liquid test kit provides the most reliable results. Learn how to use a 3 way pool test kit and use it weekly to test all parameters and make precise chemical adjustments.

Proper chemical balance and consistent physical cleaning are the two essential parts of pool maintenance. By learning how to use a pool water test kit and using the right test kit and letting your robot handle the debris, you ensure your pool remains safe, clean, and ready to enjoy.